Disaster at 3 Fonteinen

On Saturday May 16th 3 Fonteinen’s Armand Debelder entered his storage place in Halle, Belgium and found that a failure of  the thermostat had allowed the temperature to rise from 16 degrees Celsius to around 60 (!) degrees Celsius for at least 36 hours. As a result, a small number of the fermenting bottles of geuze and kriek had simply exploded and others had started leaking. Upon tasting some of the intact bottles, DeBelder observed that the beer was slightly oxidized; still better than a lot of beers that can be found on the shelves, but not worthy of the name 3 Fonteinen.  As a consequence, close to 100,000 small bottles (50,000 liters of beer), had to be discarded.

Volunteers and supporters from different countries flocked to Halle to help Debelder uncork all the bottles by hand to save them for future use.  To salvage some of his investment (around 315,000 dollars), Debelder will be using the lambic from the intact bottles for distillation to produce a non-sweetened 40° eau de vie at Distillerie de Biercée in Tuin, which will be offered in small bottles of 50 cl.

Naturally, DeBelder is devastated about what happened but notes that the support from lambic supporters and other lambic breweries has been heartwarming. Please support 3 Fonteinen by purchasing its excellent products and the unique eau de vie upon release.

Dutch links:

Thermostaat vernielt productie 3 Fonteinen

Thermostaat verknoeit 50.000 liter lambiek (with video)

English Links:

Serious blow to Drie Fonteinen

Brief Update on Setback at Drie Fonteinen


Horal’s Oude Geuze Mega Blend

megablendThe nature of producing Geuze makes it quite suitable to blend lambics from different brewers. As a matter of fact, in the old days some pub owners blended their own Geuze (or added their own fruit to create a fruit lambic), a tradition that has sadly disappeared as a result of the general decline of traditional lambic brewing. Fortunately, the practice of Geuze blending  still exists at “geuzestekers” like Hanssens in Dworp and, more recently, De Cam in Gooik.

It was only a matter of time before the traditional, and not always so traditional, lambic producers that make up Horal (the High Council for Artisanal Lambic beers) decided to release a beer with contributions from most Horal brewers and blenders: 3 Fonteinen, Boon, Timmermans, Oud Beersel, Lindemans, De Troch, De Cam and Hanssens. Missing from the list are Girardin and Mort Subite. Girardin is a member of Horal but generally tends to keep a lower profile and perhaps this played a part in its decision not to participate in the creation of this beer. One tour guide at Toer de Geuze 2009 speculated that Mort Subite (whose Oude Kriek indicates that it still can made a good beer if it wants to) may not have been allowed to participate by its new owner Heineken. Another brewery that did not participate is Cantillon but this should not be a surprise in light of Cantillon’s decision not to join HORAL because of its inclusion of breweries who have, let’s say, a lukewarm commitment to traditional lambic brewing.

Horal’s Oude Geuze Mega Blended was produced under the supervision of Frank Boon.  1, 2 and 3 year old lambics from the 8 collaborating brewers and blenders were collected in the summer of 2008.  The blend was bottled on October the 16th and released to the general public on the day of the Toer de Geuze, April 26, 2009.  Reportedly 16000 bottles were produced and all the bottles were numbered. The recommended sales price during the Toer de Geuze was 6 Euro. Bottle number 00001 was sold by Horal on Ebay on April the 20th for 255 Euro. As we discovered during the consumption of the Mega Blend, the recommendation on the bottle label to age this Geuze until 2011 is solid advice.

The following notes were taken on Friday, May 15, 2009:

Poured into a Cantillon Geuze glass.

Appearance: Golden, hazy, quite carbonated,  poured slowly but still had a two-finger thick head, remarkable lacing over the course of the entire beer.

Smell: Funky Brettanomyces  smell, but not overpowering. Missing some of the sharp, acidic characteristic smells of other Geuzes — very subdued. Smells sweeter as it gets warmer.

Taste: Mild, sweet-sour, lemon, somewhat astringent, little bitterness. Almost no aftertaste. Not too appealing when it approaches room temperature.

Mouthfeel: Rich carbonation, feels thicker/creamier as it goes down.

Drinkability: With a few notable exceptions, traditional Geuzes are always very drinkable. This one could have a bit more “bite” (more tartness) to it. Like most Boon products, excessive carbonation and foaming can be distracting.

Horal’s Oude Geuze Mega Blend is a decent Oude Geuze but seems to have left the brewer too early. On the other hand, some people may enjoy the taste of a young Geuze and the early release date enables lambic connoisseurs to taste the beer at various stages during its long life. An attempt will be made to age a bottle for 5 more years and revisit this beer in the future.

The name Horal’s Oude Geuze Mega Blend has been chosen to reflect the collaborative effort of 8 lambic brewers and blenders. But since a traditional Geuze requires the hand of a blender to make it all happen, one could argue that not all collaborators are equal and this is really a Boon product.  Only time will tell how this beer will compare against  Frank Boon’s best creation, Boon Oude Geuze Mariage Parfait.


Toer de Geuze 2009


Lambic beer in Portland Oregon

Portland, Oregon, is considered one of the greatest, if not THE greatest, beer city in the United States. Even the average neighborhood deli or gas station has a greater selection of craft beers than the average supermarket in other cities.  Many people here have a healthy dislike of mass produced lagers and not a week goes by without interesting beer events. And, as can be expected, Portland brewers also have a strong commitment to organic brewing, as evidenced by brewpubs such as Hopworks and Roots.  So if Portland is Beervana, should it be easier to locate and drink traditional Belgium lambics in this town?

The answer to this question is YES. As I document in the The Portland Oregon Guide to Lambic and Gueuze Beers, there are quite a number of beer stores and pubs that sell traditional lambics.  To my knowledge all traditional Belgian lambic brews can be found in Portland with the exception of De Cam but this should not be surprising because to date De Cam is not available in the US at all. A lot rarer is finding traditional lambic on tap, but it occasionally happens, especially during the annual “Puckerfest” at Belmont Station. As a general rule, expect to pay for lambics in Portland. This does not only reflect the obvious fact that lambics need to be imported, but also the labor- and time-consuming  process of traditional lambic brewing itself, which further increases price.

Is Portland a great location for locally produced wild ales? In my opinion, NOT YET. Portland does not have the equivalent of a Russian River or Allagash brewery. To the extent that sour ales are produced in Portland they often are expensive one time seasonal experiments, stray too far from tradition, or leave the brewer with too much residual sugar. Although one cannot expect a Portland brewer to produce a traditional product like Cantillon Lou Pepe Gueuze without extensive knowledge, skill, and most of all, patience, there is no reason to assume there could not be a market for such beers in Oregon. And, like California, Oregon also has a strong wine culture and it is well established that traditional lambics are often found more appealing by wine drinkers than by beer drinkers.

Like traditional lambic, The Portland Oregon Guide to Lambic and Gueuze Beers is ALIVE. Please contact the author with updates, corrections, or information about events: lambicandwildaleATgmail.com