Lambic and Wild Ale

Reinaert Flemish Wild Ale is  triple fermented wild ale using saccharomyces and brettanomyces yeast strains. This beer was brewed by De Proef Brouwerij, an experimental brewery from the village of Lochristi in Belgium (near Gent). De Proef Brouwerij is known for its innovative products and collaborations, including collaborations with Allagash and Tom Arthur. Reinaert Flemish Wild Ale was the April 2003 selection for Michael Jackson’s Rare Beer Club.

Tasting notes were made on March 31, 2010.

Appearance: Pours a  fizzy clear pale golden yellow with good head retention.

Aroma: horsey, brett, belgian yeast, caramel; smells like a wild version of a Belgian Strong Pale Ale.

Taste: Initial sweet note, mint, bitter caramel;  alcohol; dry, lingering, bitter finish.

Mouthfeel: Medium. Significant carbonation. Smooth.

Drinkability: Quite drinkable, especially for such a high alcohol percentage. More pleasant and complex upon warming.

This beer does not hold back on the alcohol at 9%.  So far I have had mixed feelings about high alcohol Flanders reds and wild ales. This beer is doing a lot better on that front because it is going for a different experience – more reminiscent of a Belgian Triple or Strong Pale Ale. The brettanomyces add a nice touch to this style.

We found this beer in 11.2 oz. bottles at a reasonable price. If wild ales come to age we should expect more affordable year-round releases. This would be a particularly welcome development in the United States where, unlike in Belgium, the market for such beers is dominated by expensive seasonal releases.

Brettanomyces and hops are a predictable element in traditional lambic brewing but, as a general rule, the hops are not allowed to contribute to the flavor of the beer. One exception to this rule is Cantillon Iris, which does not contain wheat and includes fresh hops. As such, Cantillon has wisely decided not to label that a lambic beer. Another example of a beer that combines the Brettanomyces yeast and hops is the classic Trappist ale Orval.  But what can we expect from an experiment to combine Brettanomyces and American West Coast style hopping?

Signature Ale was conceived by the Port Brewing Company and De Proefbrouwerij in 2007 to find out. This  limited American / Belgian collaboration uses Sacchromyces and Brettanomyces and Amarillo, UK Phoenix, and German Brewers’ Gold hops during the boil and dry hopping. The result was released in 750 ml corked bottles.

The following notes were taken on Friday, March 27, 2009.

Poured into a snifter.

Appearance: Golden orange color. Substantial amount of yeast in bottom of bottle before pouring, resulting in a little yeast in the glass. 1.5 fingers of foam with some head retention and lacing.

Smell: Brett, pronounced orange smell, and citrus hops. Sweeter and more expressive when it gets warmer, but no element ever runs amok.

Taste: The malt, Brett and hops are in perfect harmony throughout. Ends on a velvety, hoppy finish. Warm and boozy.

Mouthfeel: Medium-bodied, nice carbonation, smooth, and creamy.

Drinkability: Smooth sipper. Beer changes with temperature, but is incredibly well integrated at every temperature. At 8.5% alcohol, this beer definitely packs a punch…take a taxi home!

Can one use Brettanomyces for beers that are not sour? I had an experimental 100% Brett beer once and was seriously underwhelmed, having to poor a portion of it down the drain. So it is fair to say that this beer was approached with some degree of caution. I am therefore glad to report that Signature Ale is absolutely stunning. The malt, brett and citrus hops present themselves in a beautiful balance. Finding a note that is off, even at different temperatures, is impossible.  This drinks like a strong but subtle Imperial IPA with the warm and introvert feel of a good Belgian Trappist Triple. This creation should not leave any remaining questions about the use of Brettanomyces for strongly hopped beers. A remarkable achievement.