Jolly Pumpkin Baudelaire Beer IO Saison

It may strike the reader as strange that I have never reviewed a Jolly Pumpkin beer. After all, Jolly Pumpkin is one of the major brewers of wild and sour ales in the United States. As a matter of fact, I like many of their beers. Their Bam Bière is one of my favorite year-round Saisons and makes a great session beer (if you are in Ann Arbor, MI, you can have it on tap in their pub). Their Calabaza Blanca is an excellent tart wit bier. And they also do spontaneous fermentation. So I was quite interested in tasting one of their limited releases, Baudelaire Beer IO Saison.

Another reason why I was interested in this beer is that it was brewed with rose hips, rose petals and hibiscus. Home brewers often have a hard time producing a beer that is sufficiently sour and one natural way to move things along is to add herbs with tart characteristics. The most accomplished sour beer I have brewed to date involved the addition of a whopping amount of hibiscus and brett to an ale after primary fermentation. Generous amounts of hibiscus also add a nice reddish hue to a brew.

My bottle of Baudelaire Beer IO Saison is blend 7/8 and was bottled on 2-4-2011. The beer pours an opaque reddish amber. The aroma evokes well-balanced and restrainted brettanomyces notes, strawberry, hibiscus, and rose petal. The taste is equally restrained; moderately tart, citrus, floral, slightly sweet (like dry caramel), earthy, and there is a little astringency, too. The beer is smooth and finishes on a slightly sweet note.  This spritzy beer is a pleasure to drink and would constitute an excellent introduction to sour styles. Quite an elegant brew with a pretty label.


Vrienden

Vrienden (Dutch / Flemish for friends) is a “collabeeration” between New Belgium and Allagash in the Lips of Faith series. The bottle identifies brettanomyces, lactobacillus, hibiscus flower, and endive (!) as the main players in this brew. Depending on the relative contributions of these components and the brewing process, the results could range from a distinctly herbal sour beer to a more balanced product. New Belgium and Allagash definitely aimed for the latter and the result is quite pleasing. The beer spots a clear (filtered?) red / copper color and pours with a good head that dissipates quickly. The aroma showcases yeast, flowers, cinnamon and spice. Not terribly complex, but the combination works for me. For an 8.5% alcohol beer it tastes surprisingly clean and refreshing, with some rather distinct green apple notes. The initial light tartness gives way to creamy apple to end with a long grainy and spicy finish. There is some bitterness (the endive?) but I was not surprised to discover that Target and Cascade hops clocked in at only 12.2 IBU. The low hop use allows the brettanomyces,  lactobacillus, and hibiscus to express themselves quite nicely.

Sometimes brewers offer colorful descriptions for experiments that may have been better off to remain at the brewery, but in this case their own characterization of the beer captures the restraint and balanced nature of this beer very well, including their recommendation to pair it with soft, creamy cheese. I would have preferred a more intense, sour interpretation of this beer personally, but the brewers have conveyed that such an attempt reduced the hibiscus notes. Connoisseurs of rustic barnyard and raging acidity should look elsewhere.