Midnight Sun 3767

There is no shortage of American microbreweries releasing experimental beers that are fermented with Brettanomyces yeast.  One interpretation that has become quite popular is to brew brettanomyces beers with a strong hop profile (a style I have referred to as Wild IPA or Barnyard IPA).  Midnight Sun from Anchorage, Alaska, and Colby Chandler from San Diego have collaborated on a Belgian-style India Pale Ale aged in French Oak Cabernet Sauvignon barrels.  I might have missed this beer in my local Whole Foods were it not for its striking label.

Tasting notes from March 05, 2010.

Beer was poured in a Cantillon Gueuze glass.

Appearance: Pours a thick, foamy, lasting head. Hazy golden color.

Aroma: Brett and banana. Spice. Oak. Slight sweet note upon warming.

Taste: Spicy. Hops. Mint. Citrus. Looooooooooooong dry finish of  spice and herbal hops.

Mouthfeel: Medium bodied. Medium carbonation.  Silky smooth but barrel-induced astringency is present.

Drinkability: Great, but higher alcohol does not make this a session beer.

The emphasis of this beer is clearly on the hops instead of the “funk” but this is so well executed. Perhaps my perception was influenced by the location of Midnight Sun (Alaska) and its futurist blue-grey label but there is a something like a “cold” mint note that accompanies the strong and pleasant bitter finish allowing this beer to be enjoyed both while drinking and between sips! Strangely enough, the experience also reminded me of some of the better dry stouts.  I did detect a little sourness in the beer but the mouthfeel indicated substantial barrel-induced astringency.

It will be quite a while before the United States can compete with the best spontaneously fermentated beers of Belgium but American microbreweries are pioneers in brewing these kind of wild West-Coast style ales.


Barnyard IPA

In his book Grape vs. Grain Charles Bamforth writes:

It is often not realized that, while some bottled beer was shipped, by far, the bulk of the beer sold to India was in casks, for bottling locally. Hop bitter acids by no means kill all organisms, and the most prolific inhabitant of those casks bouncing on the ocean waves was Brettanomyces. The typical flavor notes produced by this organism are “barnyard” or “mouse pee.”

The author continues to write that modern IPAs “happily, lack this touch of authenticity…..” But some traditional lambic brewers are experimenting with all malt brews and  fresh hops though. The best known available example is Cantillon’s Iris, which is made from 100% malted barley, 50% fresh hops (Styrian Goldings) and is “cold hopped” (dry hopped) before bottling. Because Iris does not contain wheat, this beer is not a lambic beer in the traditional sense of the word, but a spontaneously fermentented ale. Cantillon has even brewed an experimental concoction with fresh US Cascade hops. And in the United States, some innovating brewers are collaborating on “wild IPA” style beers.